Basic Purse Free Pattern

Materials Needed:

WW Yarn – 1 skein (7 or 8 oz) should be plenty, though barely since there wasn’t much left when I finished it. If you do the flap closure, you’ll need 2 skeins.

Yarn Needle

Size “H” hook

Medium to Large Button (optional if you pick the flap closure)

Zipper (optional)

Fabric for Lining (optional)

Needle and Thread (used for lining and zipper or button)

Basic Purse Pattern:

chain 36

add 4 dc to each end to form corners (80 dc total) slip stitch to beginning dc.
row 2: chain 3 then dc evenly until 4 “end” stitches  then 2 dc per stitch for those 4  to round out ends (88 dc total)
row 3 – 13: dc evenly until end (with chain 3 for beginning of each row of 88 dc)

Add liner (optional)
Add zipper (optional)
Closure alternative :

chain 16, turn and chain 3
Row 1: dc across evenly, turn chain 3 repeat for rows 2-7
Row 8: dc in first stitch decrease, then dc in next 10 stitches, decrease, dc in last stitch (14 dc total)
Row 9: dc in first stitch, decrease then dc in next 8 stitches, decrease, dc in last stitch (12 total)
single crochet all around the piece, when you get to the 12 dc end, 5 sc, chain 5, skip 2 stitches, sc to end. This gives you a button hole. With same color yarn, sew to center of purse side, fold over, mark where the button should be, and sew it on.

strap:

chain 8
In 3rd loop from hook, dc and in every stitch across (5 dc total)
row 2 – 50: (begin with chain 3 or pull up a tall loop and dc in first stitch rather than chain 3) dc across evenly, tie off and weave in end at end of row 50.

Using extra yarn of same color, sew each end of the strap to the corners of the purse.

If you have any questions or anything is unclear, feel free to ask. This pattern is untested. I counted everything out from the completed purse.

Roll-Up Hook Case Free Pattern

Materials Needed:

WW yarn (your color of choice)
Size “H” hook
Yarn needle
sewing needle and thread
Elastic
3 medium to large sized buttons

Begin by chaining 31.

Row 1: In first loop from hook, sc and then across to end (30 sc) chain 1 & turn
Row 2 – 49 (worked in back loop only): sc across (30sc total each row)
Row 50: sc across (30 sc) then sc down edge until you get to the beginning chain. On the beginning chain row (this row is where you’ll make your button holes), 3 sc, chain 5, skip 1 stitch, sc in next 9 stitches, chain 5, skip 1 stitch, sc in next 9, chain 5, skip 1 stitch, sc in next 3, turn and work sc up the edge, tie off and weave in end.

When you’re done, there should be ridges and grooves in the crocheted section. This makes deciding where to put the hook “slots” so much easier.

Take the elastic and measure out a length that stretches from just before the 3rd “groove” from one end to the 3rd “groove” from other end. You’ll need 2 elastic straps.

The first hook “slot” will go into the 3rd groove from the edge. Sew elastic to ridge before hook slot and to the ridge after hook slot on both the top and bottom elastic bands. Then repeat for each ridge across until you have a total of 20 hook slots.

Roll the case up, and use stitch markers to mark where the buttons need to be placed to line up with the button holes. Sew them on and there you have it. One handy, dandy roll-up hook case. Enjoy!

Finished product holds 20 hooks from sizes “B” to “N”. There’s also enough space at the ends to hold a yarn needle and safety pins or stitch markers.

Back Scratcher

Who doesn’t need a good back scratching every now and again? If you’re like me, it never fails. There’s no one around to help you out and that insufferable itch is just out of reach. I’ve found when it comes to crochet, necessity can spawn some rather unique, fun and/or useful ideas at times. This time, it spawned a back scratcher. This is super easy and quick to make and works up in one easy piece.

PATTERN:

Size “N” Hook

Three strands of WW yarn (any color; I used scraps)

Chain 50. With a stitch marker or safety pin, mark stitch #50, then chain 5o more. Chain one and begin single crocheting up the second set of 50. When you reach your marker/pin, chain two and pull them under the beginning chain, then single crochet back up the other side of the second set of 50. When you reach the end, put one single crochet in the end (this gives both ends of the scratcher part a rounded look) then chain 50. Tie off and there you go. Works like a charm. My husband even asked for one, and he rarely asks for anything crocheted, so I take that as a compliment from him.

Enjoy!

Warm Feet

I know these aren’t really all that much to look at. In fact, my oldest (15) has already made quite a bit of fun of them, but I like them. They’re comfy and they serve their purpose—keeping my feet warm. They’re roomy enough to go on over my socks (and even thicker ones if I want) yet snug enough not to fall off. Now I get to make me some more in other colors.

These house shoes worked up fairly quickly, and believe it or not are all one piece with two small sections sewn together at the edge to form the toe and heel sections. Really simple pattern that I, as I usually do, made up as I went along.

I have no idea what the color is. It’s just some yarn I had extra of and happened to be enough to make them both with not that much left to spare! It’s made completely in double crochet.

House Shoes

Shoe size 8 – 8 1/2

Hook size “H”

Chain 38

In second chain from hook, dc and then continue across (36 DC total).

Beginning row 2, you’ll be working in the round. So you’ll fold the piece you just did in half and start the first DC of row 2 on top of the first DC from row 1. I found it helps if you use a safety pin or something to hold the ends of the first row together until you get at least row 2 finished. Remember where you’re beginning stitch is located, you’ll need this info for when you begin the heel part.

Continue your rounds (no turning) for a total of 10 rounds.

Row 11 starts off like all the other rows, but you only do 18DC, chain 2 and turn.

Do 6 more rows of 18DC. Fold the end of the last 7 rows you did together and either go ahead and sew them up or pin in place until you’re done. Make sure you pull the inside ends of the heel together so your seam ends up inside the shoe and not outside of it.

Now DC around the opening for 6 rows. You’ll be doing decreases starting with the second row (decrease in 4 locations, beginning, first corner in front, second corner in front, and last stitch [add extras at the start and end if needed) until you have 6 rows and ending the 6th row on 38 DC.

If you didn’t already, turn the shoe wrong side out, sew up the end of the toes and the heel piece, and there you go. One house shoe. They come out kind of boxy, but I find I rather like that. They’re not too snug on the toes, but not so loose they fall off or slide around on your feet when moving around.

As usual, if you have any questions regarding this pattern, feel free to leave a comment or email me and I’ll do what I can to help. Enjoy the shoes!

Size Adjustments

If you need larger or smaller shoes, chain until it’s big enough to wrap around your foot at the widest part (make sure it’s an even number, because this makes it easier to do the heel part). Add or subtract rows as needed to get the length correct (odd or even doesn’t matter on the rows). You can also add rows to the last section (the part that goes up the leg) to make them a bit taller if you like.

**Copyright Information: All patterns listed on this page are copyrighted to Heather Kundert. You are free to use the patterns to make the items, which you can then keep, give away or sell, however you may not sell the patterns or reprint them anywhere. Links back to the patterns are always welcome.

Going to the Dogs

hehehe, I couldn’t resist that subject line. It is rather fitting, though, since this post is in regards to the sweater I made for my bestest doggy, Ty. The model in the pics, is not my beloved Ty, who is not in a cooperative mood this morning, so I had to drag out one of my trusty BAB dogs, who doesn’t get temperamental to do the job for me.

Front view. I have no idea why it’s not standing up right, because I turned the picture. For some reason, when I uploaded it, the thing turned sideways and I can’t figure out how to turn it back. *sigh*

Top view. I made it nice and long, because Ty is long and sleek like most Min-Pins are.

Side view. Ty’s absolutely adorable in this, however, after last night’s storms, he just wasn’t in the mood to model this morning. So, I had to use one of my BAB dogs, Bailey, to do the job for him. It DOES fit, though, because I tried it on him late last night when I finished it. I just didn’t think to snap a pic at the time, because it was something like 2am and I was tired and just never thought of it.

This was really easy to make and worked up fairly quickly. As usual, I didn’t use a pattern. Basically, it goes like this.

I make the sweater in three parts. Bottom, top and then after sewing them together, I add the neck piece to it.

I always start with the bottom piece, which for my 7lb Min-Pin was 20 stitches (double crochet) across (22 base chain) for nine rows with the last three rows getting an increase at each end (meaning rows 7, 8, & 9 will each add 2 additional stitches per line [row 7 - 22 stitches, row 8 - 24 stitches, & row 9 - 26 stitches] or it’ll be too tight behind the back legs and across the chest). The back part is 30 stitches (double crochet) across (32 base chain) for 19 rows. I then tack the two pieces together at the top and bottom corners of the bottom piece (the smaller of the two). Once that is done, I do a row of single crochet around the neck opening, then two rows of double crochet so it folds down nicely and more comfortably around the neck.

Clear as mud, right? LOL I forgot the increases when making it, and had to take out the back two seams and add a couple rows (3 single crochet wide for 3 rows) to each corner to make it wide enough to fit more comfortably around his chest. Must remember the increase in future versions. You can also single crochet around the leg holes if you wish, but I chose not to. He’s picky about his legs, and I felt the added border would bother him too much.

This should be fairly simple to adjust the size of, just add stitches and rows to make it larger, and take them away for smaller. When I get around to making one for the 4lb chihuahua, I’ll post those measurements as well.

As always, if you have any questions feel free to contact me and I’ll do my best to help.

**Copyright Information: All patterns listed on this page are copyrighted to Heather Kundert. You are free to use the patterns to make the items, which you can then keep, give away or sell, however you may not sell the patterns or reprint them anywhere. Links back to the patterns are always welcome.